The late spring of 2026 found me in Cordova, Alaska, a remote jewel nestled on the eastern edge of Prince William Sound. The culmination of a long weekend trip was a convivial dinner at the local brewery, sharing stories with my cousin and the very seafood producers who were redefining Alaska’s rich maritime heritage. My days had been spent out on the frigid waters, alongside the dedicated individuals who make their livelihoods from these nutrient-dense seas, a stone’s throw from the very brewery where we were now celebrating their efforts.
While the iconic image of Alaskan seafood often defaults to its world-renowned salmon, the reality on the ground is shifting. The wild salmon industry, once a cornerstone of the state’s economy, has faced significant challenges in recent years, exacerbated by the undeniable impacts of climate change and dwindling fish stocks. However, a new generation of Alaskan entrepreneurs is forging a path toward a regenerative future, establishing a burgeoning mariculture industry in the same pristine, icy waters that cemented Alaska’s reputation as a global leader in sustainable seafood production.
Cordova, a town inaccessible by road, where mist perpetually dances off the water’s surface and mountains plunge dramatically into the sea, is at the forefront of this transformation. It’s a place often overlooked by the typical tourist trail, yet the surrounding waters possess an exceptional quality, proving to be ideal for cultivating kelp and oysters. The innovative spirit of individuals like Thea Thomas and Cale Hershcleb of Royal Ocean Kelp Co., Sean and Skye Den Adel of Noble Ocean Farms, and Seawan Gehlbach of Simpson Bay Oyster Company stands as a testament to this potential.
The Resurgence of Kelp Farming: Diversification and Sustainability
Thea Thomas, a seasoned mariner who transitioned from salmon fishing to kelp farming, highlights the critical role of diversification in this challenging environment. "It’s a struggle, life here," she explained, "and the largest benefit of kelp is the diversification. It can’t support you completely, but it can play a part – create jobs, local incomes, benefit the economy." This sentiment underscores the economic imperative driving the growth of mariculture in a region reliant on its natural resources.
The demanding nature of this new industry was evident during an early May morning harvest. Clad in seven layers of thermal gear aboard her vessel, the FV Myrmidon, Thomas still felt the chill of the Alaskan spring. While precipitation is typically a cold drizzle and winds can be ferocious, the year 2026 presented an even more severe cold snap, pushing the boundaries of what’s considered normal, even for Alaska. Her mornings are dedicated to tending their seaweed farm, meticulously harvesting sugar kelp cultivated on ropes suspended by buoys – a deliberate departure from wild harvesting practices. On this particular day, her boat was a solitary speck on the vast, steely expanse of water.
The journey into kelp farming required Thomas to navigate a new set of challenges, from securing permits and establishing farm infrastructure to understanding the nuances of what thrives in these specific conditions. Despite the initial learning curve, the work itself ignites her passion. "It’s really fun and energizing," she shared, her voice animated. "Developing new buyers, new products. It keeps the work interesting." This drive to innovate and adapt is crucial for the long-term viability of this nascent industry.
A Timeline of Growth and Resilience in Mariculture
The kelp harvest season in Prince William Sound typically spans from late April through May, though the exact timing is fluid. It is dictated by the kelp reaching its peak biomass before the risk of degradation sets in. During this period, Thomas occasionally hosts natural history and birding cruises, offering visitors a unique perspective on the region. These excursions coincide with Cordova’s annual Copper River Delta Shorebird Festival, providing an opportunity to witness the areas where local kelp farms operate while observing migratory birds.
The daily routine for these dedicated farmers begins early. Thomas is typically on the water by 8 AM, working for approximately six hours, a duration contingent on weather conditions and the processing schedule awaiting her return. A single harvest can yield around 3,000 pounds of kelp, destined for processing over the subsequent five to six days. Ribbon kelp, a more delicate variety, presents its own set of challenges, with growth patterns varying significantly year to year, making it difficult to predict success until the lines are pulled from the water.
Sean Den Adel of Noble Ocean Farms has firsthand experience with the inherent uncertainties of this pioneering field. His business, like many in the mariculture sector, has navigated a period of trial and error. Kelp farming, still in its infancy in the United States, demands adaptability. An initial farming site, despite securing the necessary permits, proved unsuitable due to freshwater runoff from a nearby glacial valley, which interfered with kelp growth. Furthermore, the bay would freeze solid in winter, rendering the farm inaccessible. This setback necessitated an amendment to their Alaska farming permit and a relocation, resulting in the loss of a full growing season.
Pioneering Oysters and the Promise of Simpson Bay
While kelp farming gains momentum, other mariculture ventures are also flourishing. A few miles away, in Simpson Bay, Seawan Gehlbach dedicates her days from early May to October to cultivating oysters. Gehlbach, who initially came to Cordova as a biologist with the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, found herself drawn to the region and sought a new path on the water. She established Simpson Bay Oyster Company in 2019, driven by a desire to continue working in the marine environment.
Cordova, a robust commercial fishing hub, boasts a discerning clientele with high standards for seafood. Gehlbach recognized the importance of earning local trust. "I’m new to aquaculture," she stated during a May visit, "so there’s been a lot to learn." Her perseverance paid off when a seasoned fisherman began purchasing her oysters and became a regular customer. This validation, coupled with the reciprocal gestures of goodwill, such as receiving a jar of locally smoked Copper River king salmon, deeply motivates her. "It warms my heart," Gehlbach shared, "and it keeps me growing oysters."
The flavor profile of Gehlbach’s oysters is a direct reflection of their pristine environment – a briny sweetness underscored by a profound umami richness that lingers on the palate. For travelers eager to explore Alaska’s oyster offerings beyond Cordova, the Alaska Shellfish Growers Association’s Alaska Oyster Voyage program provides a comprehensive map of oyster farms and tasting opportunities across the state.
A Deeper Connection to the Marine Ecosystem
The experience of visiting these farms on a crisp May morning offered more than just a glimpse into the scale of the operations. It was an immersion into a pristine natural environment, characterized by clean air, the symphony of nature, and a palpable absence of urban clamor. Near Gehlbach’s oyster lines, a sea otter was observed playfully rolling in the water, a mere few yards from the boat’s bow. The discovery of small, spiny sea urchins clinging to the underside of a tray of oysters pulled from the water further highlighted the intricate biodiversity of this thriving ecosystem.
For visitors seeking an on-the-water experience without personal connections to local fishermen, Cordova offers charter fishing trips. These excursions often navigate through the same protected bays and inlets where kelp and oyster farms are situated, providing an intimate view of the region’s burgeoning mariculture industry. Many captains and guides have direct ties to these operations, offering valuable insights into their practices.
Outfitters like Orca Adventure Lodge, based in Cordova, provide guided sea kayak and hiking tours through Prince William Sound, further enhancing the visitor experience. Cruise ship passengers can also access Cordova-based activities as add-on excursions, including boat tours of the harbor and visits to active kelp mariculture operations.
From Farm to Table: Innovative Products and Local Partnerships
The journey from kelp farm to consumer is marked by innovation and local collaboration. Royal Ocean and Noble Ocean supply kelp to both the wholesale and fertilizer markets. Cale Hershcleb, Thomas’s partner, has also been experimenting with kelp in his smokehouse, transforming it into a dried and smoked seasoning blend, similar to Japanese furikake. While still a niche product, advertised on social media and sold in small batches directly from their homes, it represents a growing trend in value-added seafood products. To experience this unique offering, a visit to Cordova is essential. The Reluctant Fisherman, a local restaurant and inn, occasionally features these locally sourced mariculture products on its menu.
Noble Ocean Farms also engages in smaller-scale local partnerships. Their kelp is used by Copper River Brewery to craft a distinctive kelp beer, and Baja Taco in Cordova incorporates bull kelp into its salsas. The farm also supplies kelp to the Native Village of Eyak’s food distribution program, a crucial initiative aimed at providing the Indigenous community with access to culturally relevant, locally harvested foods, reinforcing the community’s connection to its ancestral foodways.
The most direct farm-to-table model is exemplified by Gehlbach’s Simpson Bay Oyster Company. Initially selling wholesale to restaurants, she transitioned to a direct-to-consumer sales approach to foster closer customer relationships. When oysters are ready for harvest, she announces the availability on her Facebook page, taking pre-orders for direct sales from her Cordova storefront. This flexible schedule means that fortunate visitors in town at the right time can purchase shellfish harvested mere hours earlier.
The Cordova Experience: A Culinary and Natural Haven
For travelers, the reward of visiting Cordova lies in the opportunity to savor Gehlbach’s impeccably fresh oysters, sample locally smoked kelp, and enjoy a unique Sour Sea Witch beer at Copper River Brewing. Beyond the culinary delights, the region offers unparalleled opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts, with hiking and fishing excursions providing breathtaking views of glaciers, humpback whales, orcas, and sea otters. This convergence of sustainable food production, vibrant local culture, and pristine natural beauty positions Cordova as a compelling destination for those seeking an authentic Alaskan experience. The emergence of this mariculture industry is not just about new food products; it’s about fostering a deeper connection between people, their environment, and the sustainable future of vital marine ecosystems. The resilience and ingenuity of these producers are charting a course for a more robust and ecologically sound Alaskan seafood industry, one that honors the legacy of its past while embracing the innovations of the future.
