In a significant milestone for high-altitude mountaineering in the Himalayas, a Spanish climbing team comprising Mikel Zabalza, Ruben Perez, and Mikel Saez de Urabain has successfully completed the first recorded ascent of Jugal II. The 6,518-meter peak, situated in the Jugal Himal region of Nepal near the Tibetan border, had long remained an elusive objective for international climbing expeditions. The team reached the summit on October 26, successfully navigating the challenging east-southeast face before returning to their base camp on October 27, according to reports verified by their support team in Spain.
The success of the Spanish expedition marks the culmination of a multi-year effort to unlock the secrets of the Jugal massif. For Zabalza and Urabain, the victory was particularly sweet, as it followed a failed attempt in the spring of 2024. During that previous excursion, the duo was forced to abandon their plans due to persistent adverse weather conditions, which rendered the technical terrain of the mountain unsafe. Their return this autumn highlights the necessity of patience and repeat reconnaissance in modern alpine-style mountaineering.
A Landscape of Shifting Objectives
The recent ascent of Jugal II occurred against a backdrop of logistical instability in the Nepalese mountains. The region, which has seen an influx of interest since the government opened Jugal I and II to foreign climbers in 2023, is susceptible to the volatile climate patterns of the Himalayas. This year, the planned itinerary of several high-profile teams was upended by severe environmental challenges.
Italian mountaineers Nives Meroi and Romano Benet, both highly respected figures in the climbing community, had initially set their sights on the elusive summit of Tilicho Peak in the Annapurna region. However, catastrophic weather events, including torrential rains and subsequent flooding, rendered access to the region nearly impossible. Trails were washed away, and critical bridge infrastructure was destroyed, forcing the duo to pivot toward the Jugal Himal as a viable alternative.
Their journey was further complicated by the illness of their expedition partner, Tine Cuder, who was forced to withdraw two weeks prior to the final attempt. Despite these setbacks, Meroi and Benet persisted, reaching the base of Jugal II around the same time as the Spanish team. According to accounts provided by Meroi during the team’s transit back to Kathmandu, the two expeditions maintained a cooperative presence in the area. While the Spanish team successfully summited on October 26, the Italian team opted to retreat on the preceding day, prioritizing safety in the face of mounting environmental pressures.
The Geography and Accessibility of the Jugal Himal
The Jugal Himal range occupies a unique position in the geography of the Nepalese Himalayas. Located to the northeast of Kathmandu, the range is remarkably accessible compared to the remote peaks of the Everest or Annapurna regions. Historically, this proximity to the capital might have suggested that its peaks would be among the first to be climbed; however, the region remained largely restricted to foreign expeditions until the Nepalese government formally opened the peaks for climbing in 2023.
The accessibility of the range—reachable via a combination of road travel and a relatively short trek—has made it a prime target for modern mountaineers looking for "unclimbed" challenges without the massive logistical burden of high-altitude base camps. Yet, accessibility does not equate to ease of ascent. The terrain of Jugal II presents a complex topography of snow, ice, and rock that requires a high degree of technical proficiency, particularly when approached via the east-southeast face utilized by the Spanish team.
A Brief Chronology of Recent Exploration
The history of the Jugal Himal, while short in terms of official international records, has been defined by rapid development over the last 24 months.
- 2023: The Nepalese government officially opens Jugal I and II to foreign expeditions, sparking immediate interest from the international climbing community.
- Spring 2024: A high-profile Korean-Nepalese expedition, led by veteran climber Um Hong-gil and featuring renowned Sherpa mountaineers Dawa Yangzum and Lakpa Dendi, launches a dual-peak attempt. They successfully summit Jugal I, marking a historic achievement, but are unable to secure a successful ascent of Jugal II.
- Spring 2024: Mikel Zabalza and Mikel Saez de Urabain conduct an initial scouting mission on Jugal II but are repelled by extreme weather conditions.
- October 2026: The Spanish team returns to the mountain, successfully navigating the route to reach the summit on October 26.
- Late October 2026: Concurrent expeditions, including the team of Meroi and Benet, exit the region via Kathmandu, confirming the success of the Spanish team and the closure of the autumn climbing window.
Analysis of Technical and Logistical Challenges
The success of the Zabalza-Perez-Urabain expedition provides a blueprint for future attempts on the mountain. By focusing on the east-southeast face, the team utilized a route that demanded high-level endurance and technical skill in mixed terrain.
Climbing experts note that the Jugal Himal presents a "Goldilocks" scenario for modern alpinism. It is high enough to be considered a serious altitude challenge—surpassing the 6,500-meter threshold—but low enough that it does not require the months of oxygen-dependent acclimatization associated with 8,000-meter peaks. This makes it an ideal proving ground for teams utilizing the "alpine style," characterized by minimal support, no fixed ropes, and high mobility.
However, the failure of other teams to secure the summit of Jugal II highlights the inherent danger of these peaks. The sudden onset of regional storms, as seen with the destruction of trails in the Annapurna region, can isolate climbers with little warning. The ability of the Spanish team to time their final push between weather windows is a testament to their logistical planning and experience in the Himalayas.
Implications for Future Mountaineering in Nepal
The successful ascent of Jugal II is expected to serve as a catalyst for further exploration in the Jugal Himal. As the "first-ascent" list for 6,000-meter peaks in Nepal continues to shrink, the focus of the global mountaineering community is shifting toward areas that offer high technical difficulty rather than just extreme altitude.
Furthermore, the participation of both international teams and local Sherpa talent in these expeditions underscores the evolving nature of the industry. The collaborative spirit between the Spanish and Italian teams in the final days of their expedition highlights a growing trend of camaraderie and shared intelligence among high-altitude climbers. As Meroi and Benet noted upon their return, the environment of the Himalayas demands mutual support, especially when the mountain dictates a retreat.
The successful ascent by Zabalza’s team will likely lead to an increase in interest from other European and Asian climbing clubs. Local tourism boards in the Sindhupalchok district, where the Jugal Himal is located, have expressed optimism that the opening of these peaks will bring a new, specialized demographic of trekkers and climbers to the region, providing a sustainable alternative to the overcrowded trails of the Everest region.
Conclusion and Future Outlook
The accomplishment of Mikel Zabalza, Ruben Perez, and Mikel Saez de Urabain adds a significant chapter to the mountaineering record of Nepal. By successfully summitting the 6,518-meter Jugal II, they have resolved one of the most prominent "open" questions in the region’s recent climbing history.
As the climbers return to their respective homes and begin the process of compiling their summit reports and photographic evidence, the broader community awaits the technical details of their route. These details will be invaluable for future parties looking to tackle the peak. For now, the successful summit stands as a reminder of the rewards that come with persistence, technical excellence, and the ability to adapt to the unpredictable nature of the world’s highest ranges. The Jugal Himal, once a quiet, unknown corner of the borderland, is firmly established as a premier destination for the next generation of Himalayan explorers.
