Open Tab serves as a weekly compendium of noteworthy news, evolving narratives, and intriguing developments that have captured attention across the culinary landscape. This edition delves into a spectrum of topics, from the intricate economics of restaurant bread to the cultural fusion of art and retail, the evolving stances of coffee chains, and the surprising influence of regional food trends. We also examine the intersection of politics and fast food, the heated debates surrounding the cost of staple dishes, and the increasing corporatization of beloved comfort foods.
The Culinary Discourse: From Artisanal Bread to Cultural Icons
This week’s exploration into the world of food news began with a deep dive into a widely discussed article by Caity Weaver, which meticulously investigated the pursuit of "the best free bread in America." While the piece offered a comprehensive survey of complimentary bread offerings at various establishments, it notably omitted a personal favorite for many, the warm, generously portioned, and famously free rolls of Bertucci’s. This omission, while perhaps a minor point for some, highlights a broader phenomenon: the subjective nature of culinary nostalgia and preference. Much like how cherished television shows often resonate most strongly with those who discovered them during their formative years, our most beloved "free" food items can be deeply intertwined with personal histories and early dining experiences. The article’s extensive analysis, spanning over a thousand words before addressing this particular omission, underscores the significant cultural and emotional weight that even seemingly simple offerings like free bread can carry.
In parallel, the Los Angeles cultural scene has been abuzz with the announcement of Erewhon, the high-end grocery chain, opening a new location within the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA). This development, slated for April 19, has sparked considerable debate. Critics have voiced concerns regarding the perceived incongruity of a luxury food retailer within a public art institution, questioning the implications for accessibility and the museum’s core mission. Conversely, proponents view this collaboration as a synergistic fusion of two significant cultural pillars of Los Angeles. The integration of a gourmet market within a renowned art museum represents a growing trend of experiential retail, where consumers seek curated environments that blend commerce with cultural enrichment. The long-term impact on visitor experience and the museum’s financial sustainability remains a subject of ongoing observation.
Adding another layer to the week’s discourse is the ongoing situation with Philz Coffee and its stance on Pride flags. Following up on discussions from the previous week, a leaked internal memo, as reported by the San Francisco Chronicle, suggests that Philz will be replacing Pride flags with a new, "unifying" piece of artwork in all its stores. This decision has reignited conversations about corporate social responsibility and the role of businesses in supporting LGBTQ+ rights. The memo indicates an intent to present a more neutral or universally appealing aesthetic, a strategy that has drawn criticism from those who view the removal of Pride symbols as a step backward. The effectiveness and reception of this new artwork will be closely monitored, as companies navigate the complex landscape of social activism and brand identity in the current climate. The potential for symbolic gestures to either foster or alienate customer bases is a critical consideration for businesses in the service industry.
Beyond these prominent narratives, the week has seen a flurry of other noteworthy developments. Crumbl Cookies, a bakery chain that experienced meteoric growth, is reportedly facing a slowdown. The debate over the appropriate price point for rotisserie chickens has intensified, with a $77 whole chicken at a New York City establishment igniting widespread discussion. Furthermore, the humble bagel is now at the center of a story about private equity investment, signaling a potential shift in the landscape of artisanal food businesses.
The Political Palate: Fast Food as Campaign Currency
The intersection of politics and fast food has once again come into sharp focus with recent events involving a prominent political figure and his well-documented affinity for McDonald’s. Throughout his electoral campaigns and presidency, this individual has consistently leveraged fast food, particularly McDonald’s, as a tool for public engagement and political messaging. This strategy has included serving fries in battleground states, hosting lavish buffets of Big Macs for White House guests, and reportedly, indulging in cheeseburgers as a nightly ritual. The alignment of such a populist food choice with a broader "MAHA" (Make America Great Again) movement, as it is colloquially known, presents a complex and often contradictory image that defies simple analysis.
Most recently, a carefully orchestrated event saw the political figure ordering McDonald’s via DoorDash to the Oval Office. While the act itself was not entirely surprising given his past associations, the underlying purpose was revealed to be a strategic maneuver to promote his "no tax on tips" policy. This policy, intended to appeal to service industry workers, has met with a mixed reception, with many servers expressing reservations about its universal benefits and potential unintended consequences. The incident was further punctuated by an unexpected question posed to the DoorDash driver, Sharon Simmons, regarding transgender athletes in women’s sports. Her measured response, stating a lack of opinion on the matter, inadvertently encapsulated the current polarized cultural landscape and the complex social issues that often become intertwined with even the most mundane of interactions. This event serves as a potent vignette illustrating the pervasive nature of contemporary culture wars, extending even into the realm of fast-food delivery.
The "Utah-ification" of American Palates: A Shifting Food Landscape
A discernible trend in recent years has been the growing influence of Utah’s food culture on the national stage. This phenomenon, dubbed "Utah-ification" by some observers, has seen companies originating from the state achieve significant national recognition. Crumbl Cookies, a dessert shop founded in Utah, was recognized in 2023 as the country’s fastest-growing bakery, a testament to its innovative marketing and product strategy. Simultaneously, Swig, another Utah-based enterprise, has played a pivotal role in popularizing "Dirty Soda"—a concoction of soda, flavored syrups, and cream. The surge in popularity of Dirty Soda has been amplified by its appearances on popular media, such as the Hulu series "The Secret Lives of Mormon Wives," further embedding it into the broader cultural conversation.
However, the trajectory of this Utah-centric culinary expansion has encountered some turbulence this past week. While McDonald’s has embraced the Dirty Soda trend by introducing its own variations, such as the "Dirty Dr. Pepper," Crumbl Cookies appears to be facing a period of recalibration. Reports indicate a slowdown in growth for Crumbl in 2024, with franchise documents revealing a decline in per-franchise revenue in 2025. This slowdown has raised questions about the sustainability of Crumbl’s rapid expansion model and whether the company can adapt to evolving market dynamics. The potential for such rapid growth to plateau or decline is a common narrative in the fast-casual sector, often prompting strategic pivots or a re-evaluation of business models. The future of Crumbl, and by extension, the broader impact of Utah’s food influence, remains a topic of keen interest.
The Rotisserie Roast: Debating the Price of Poultry
A rare moment of consensus within the food media world emerged this week, centered on the seemingly exorbitant price of a rotisserie chicken. The focus of this widespread discussion was a whole chicken offered at Gigi’s, a restaurant located in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, priced at a staggering $77. While this price point does include accompanying roast potatoes and a trio of sauces, the cost has been widely perceived as excessive, sparking significant debate and outrage.
The catalyst for this fervent discourse was an Instagram post by New York City councilman Chi Ossé, who questioned the $40 price of a half chicken at the same establishment. His post ignited a cascade of reactions, highlighting the growing concerns about inflation and the affordability crisis impacting everyday consumers. Gigi’s owner, Hugo Hivernat, acknowledged the high price in a statement to Bon Appétit, attributing it to the prevailing economic conditions and stating, "It’s not our fault we have to do these prices." This defense, while understandable from a business perspective, underscores the broader economic pressures that are forcing restaurants to re-evaluate their pricing strategies, often leading to sticker shock for patrons accustomed to more traditional price points for staple items. The debate serves as a microcosm of the larger conversation surrounding the rising cost of dining out and the challenges faced by both consumers and businesses in navigating an inflationary environment.
The Corporate Takeover of Bagel Culture
The humble bagel, long considered a symbol of accessible, unpretentious comfort food, is increasingly becoming a target for significant private equity investment. While many consumers associate the charm of a bagel with its simplicity and "lo-fi" nature, a growing number of establishments are elevating the bagel experience to a more premium, artisanal level. This trend is exemplified by highly regarded spots like Courage Bagels in Los Angeles and Boichik Bagels in the Bay Area, which have cultivated a more upscale brand identity.
This shift towards a more refined bagel culture has not gone unnoticed by the investment community. Following Bon Appétit’s declaration in 2023 that the "best bagels now exist outside of New York," a surge in investment capital appears to be a logical next step for this new generation of bagel makers. Increased funding can facilitate expansion, enabling these businesses to reach wider customer bases and solidify their market presence. While this influx of capital could potentially usher in a new "golden age" of bagel innovation and accessibility, there remains a degree of caution regarding the long-term impact of private equity on food ventures. The potential for profit-driven strategies to alter the inherent character and quality of artisanal food products is a persistent concern for many in the culinary world. The careful balance between growth and authenticity will be crucial for these businesses as they navigate this new financial landscape.
